Tables made of epoxy resin are a very popular design addition to interiors. The combination of wood and resin creates a very striking combination that quickly becomes the centerpiece of any space. However, making a table from resin is not a task for complete beginners. If you are just starting with resin, we strongly recommend trying out the material on several smaller projects to prepare yourself for what to expect.
Resin tables can be created in countless designs. Combine different types of wood and colors, make a live edge table (with uneven table edges and exposed wood shape), a river table (a table with an epoxy river), or just fill cracks in a wooden slab with resin.
You can also embed various objects in resin tables to create a unique poker table, a table for seamstresses, or an unusual reception desk. With our resins, you can create top-quality tables that will attract attention. So, how do you make a resin table?
What you will need for production
Resin
Color or metallic powder for resin
Decorative materials
Consumables
Scale
Material for making the mold
Other tools
Production process
-
Choosing and preparing the wood
The wood for making a resin table must be seasoned and as dry as possible. It is generally recommended that the moisture content be between 10-12%. If the wood is moist, it will continue to work, risking not only bubbling of the resin but also damage and cracking of the entire product. A wood moisture meter will help you check the moisture content.
Align the selected dry planks using a planer or router and sand off any splinters and unevenness. Remove any soft or excessively damaged areas. Ideally, remove the bark. If you want to keep the bark, secure it with small-headed nails to make them as inconspicuous as possible. -
Wood penetration
Apply penetration to the prepared planks to prevent excessive absorption of resin into the wood and to prevent air bubbles from penetrating from the wood into the resin. Every piece of wood is unique, and its condition also affects the process. Due to varying absorbency, you may need to apply the penetration in multiple layers to perfectly seal the surface. -
Making the mold
You can make the mold from many different materials, such as plastic (polyethylene, polycarbonate, polypropylene, etc.), metal, wood, laminate, MDF boards, or plexiglass.
The best material for making a mold is polypropylene, which the resin will not adhere to, so you do not need to use a separator or release tape. However, polypropylene molds are expensive. Therefore, more or less disposable molds are often made from other materials, and release materials are used.
While you can use practically any material for the mold, it is important that the mold is at least somewhat flexible to allow the removal of the product and that a separator is used. Without a separator, epoxy resin will stick to the mold, making it impossible to remove the casting.
For metal molds, use a liquid separator, and for wooden molds, use polypropylene tape (PP).
For homemade molds, it is crucial that they are well-siliconed, sealed with hot glue, or filled with acrylic sealant and have no tiny gaps. The sealing must not be made from materials prone to dissolving or leaking. Everything might seem fine for the first few hours after casting, but it may later become apparent that the sealing was inadequate in some places, causing all the resin to leak out. It is better to overestimate the sealing than to lose many kilograms of resin and ruin your workspace.
If you choose to make a mold from wood, remember to sand its surface first so that the release tape adheres perfectly. -
Preparing the wood for the mold
Place the prepared planks in the mold. The wood needs to be weighted down to prevent it from floating. Remember that the weight may adhere to the wood due to the resin, so either separate it or choose higher planks to allow space for sanding and to keep the wood's surface free from resin. Wood is often weighted down with really heavy items, such as buckets of gravel, heavy weights, etc. -
Mixing the resin
Mix the required amount of resin and hardener according to the size of the mold. For tables, we use resin 5-five, EPOXYTABLE 10, or resin Start 2.0, which are suitable for higher casting columns. Be careful about the maximum volume of resin casting to avoid bubbling of the resin.
Tip from Resin Studio
Remember that resin shrinks during curing and the final height of the table will be affected by sanding. Therefore, always overestimate the table height. Resin shrinkage is usually calculated at 1 mm for every 1 cm of the casting column.
Always mix the resin according to the mixing ratio indicated on its packaging and weigh both components on a digital scale with gram accuracy. Protect your skin, eyes, and respiratory system from contact with the resin or its fumes during work. Thoroughly mix both components from the bottom and scrape them from the sides of the mixing container (about 3-4 minutes), then pour the mixed resin into a new container and repeat the mixing. This eliminates poorly mixed areas that might not cure properly.
Do not delay in processing the resin - it is in a higher column in the container than the recommended maximum casting height, so the resin works faster and might bubble quickly in the container.
-
Coloring the resin
If you are coloring the resin, add and mix the colors gradually until you achieve the desired shade. Be cautious with the amount of color, as large amounts could negatively affect the resin's properties; the maximum recommended amount of color in mixed resin is about 2%. -
Pouring the resin
Slowly pour the mixed and colored resin into the mold. There are many design possibilities for the table, depending on your imagination. You could, for example, pour a first colored layer, add decorations, and then continue with a transparent layer. Pour the next layer either during the gelation phase when the first layer has the consistency of thick honey or after its complete curing. It depends on the effects you want to achieve and whether a visible layer separation is acceptable. Mix the resin separately for each layer.
After pouring into the mold, remove surface bubbles using a heat gun. Never hold the gun above the resin for too long; just pass it over the bubbles. Holding the heat source too long on the surface might damage the resin. Remove bubbles from the bottom of the mold using a spatula or skewer.
Cover the product to prevent dust from settling and let it cure.
-
Removing the table from the mold
Remove the table from the mold as soon as possible. The resin might become attached to the mold over time, making removal more difficult. If the mold is removable, remove it carefully so as not to damage the table or the mold itself. -
Sanding the table
Remove the formwork, release tape, and separators from the table. Sand the entire surface of the table, first with a rough grain (e.g., 80), then gradually with finer grains (e.g., 120, 180, 240, 320, 400). Sand evenly to avoid creating uneven areas. Use an orbital sander for a smoother finish. -
Finishing
After sanding, clean the surface of dust and other residues. Apply a surface treatment to the table to highlight the final design, protect the surface, and improve durability. It is best to apply the surface treatment in several layers and always follow the manufacturer's instructions. If you want to achieve a high-gloss finish, use a high-quality polish.
Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions. We will be happy to help you create the most beautiful table.
##PRODUCT-WIDGETS-34168##